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GOA CITIES
Major Cities : Margao, Mapusa, Vasco da Gama
Capital City : Panaji or Panjim
Christian Heart of Goa : Old Goa
Hindu Heartland : Ponda
Old Goa
Gently- swaying palms, heavy with fruit; stretches of smooth, golden
sand, disturbed only by the zigzag patterns left by sandcrabs and the rhythmic
crashing of frothy waves. This is what lures tourists to Goa and few of them
venture beyond the beaches. But take a drive through the less-popular interiors
of Goa and experience its unique cultural heritage.
The impact of 450 years of Portuguese colonial rule is apparent in every aspect
of Goan life - in the food and dress, in the houses painted in gay colors and
in the joie de vivre of the people. In every village, the fresh lime-washed
façade of a church stands out like a beacon in the deep green countryside.
The Portuguese explorer Alphonoso de Albuquerque captured Goa in 1510 and the
Portuguese ruled the territory till its independence on 19 December 1961. The
colony of Goa, with its epicenter at Goa Velha or Old Goa, became the capital
of the vast eastern empire of the Portuguese, sharing the same civic privileges
as Lisbon. It was often described as Goa Dourada or Golden Goa.
The early efforts of the Roman Catholic missionaries to introduce Christianity
into Goa were rather half-hearted until the arrival in 1542 of the Jesuits,
who were driven by the zeal of medieval crusaders. Francis Xavier, one of the
founders of the Society of Jesus, better known as the Jesuits, rapidly became
the patron saint of Goa.
The court in Lisbon instructed the civil administration in Goa to render maximum
support to the church and huge amounts were diverted for the establishment of
convents and monasteries. It is ironic that in the 17th century, even as Portuguese
trade and commerce began dwindling, a grandiose effort was being made to erect
more churches and cathedrals in Goa.
The churches in Old Goa aimed to overawe the local population into conversion
and to impress upon them the superiority of the foreign religion. So the facades
were made tall and lofty and the interiors were magnificent, with twisted Bernini
column, decorated pediments, profusely-carved gilt altars and colorful wall
paintings and frescoes.
Constructing the churches
Locally available laterite was used in the construction of the churches while
the trimmings were sometimes of basalt. Laterite being a very porous stone,
the churches had to be plastered and finished with a lime white-wash. In fact,
the color white was so identified with churches that the local administration
ruled that no house could be painted that color.
By 1635, the following waves of epidemics, the seat of power moved from Old
Goa to Panjim, bringing about its inevitable decline. Looking at he overgrown
jungle that covers most of Old Goa, it is difficult to imagine that the city
once had grand houses and crowded bazaars with elegant shops. All that remains
are a dozen churches, convents and monasteries.
A treasure house of Cathedrals, churches and monasteries
The best way to do justice to the great city of Old Goa, is to first visit the
group of three big churches - the Basilica of Bom Jesus, Se Cathedral and the
Church and Convent of St Francis of Assisi. The latter houses the Archaeological
Museum. Thereafter, visit the Chapel of St Catherine (1510) and the ruins of
the Palace of the Inquisition, before taking a walk down the quay to view the
remnants of a once bustling city. Stop briefly at the Vicerory's Arch that was
rebuilt in 1599.
East of the Vicerory's Arch is the Church of St Cajetan and the Gate of the
palace of Adil Shah. What was formerly Adil Shah's principal palace was used
as the Viceroy's residence from 1554-1695.
To get the best hilltop view, climb the Holy Hill. Quite a few churches and
convents are scattered over the hillside: the Church of Our Lady of the Rosary
is one of the earliest churches built; the Royal Chapel of St Anthony (1543),
the patron saint of Portugal; the Church and Monastery of St Augustine; the
convent of St Monica and the Church and Convent of St John of God (1685). Climb
down the hill and turn left till you hit the highway that takes you back to
the Basilica.
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